Kyber
Pass
Dodgy photos from a disposable camera for the next 2 pages!
The
Kyber
Pass seems to have become some what of a legend in history. But
everything I read on it tells a different story. They say it hasn't actually
been as significant or as strategic as people believe. But I don't care.
They've made a carry on film here so thats good enough for me. In fact I amuse
myself with the thought of yelling "up ya Kyber" to the locals as I
sit on top of the pick up truck:)
The arch at the start of the pass.
The Pass lies around 40km or so from the centre of
Peshawar. It's also in a tribal zone so armed police protection is
required to visit. This is all arranged easily, in my case the hotel owner
arranges the permit, the gaurd, the taxi to the pass and a small tour around
the tribal town of Landi Kotal and all for U$9ish.
The pass on the
Pakistan side. Probably the best photo point.
From the smugglers bazzar (the last place where
foreigners are allowed without an armed escort) we pass into tribal land. It
appears no different apart from the gun shops and the locals carrying
Kalashnakovs. We stop at the touristy start of the pass where the arch crosses
the road. We read the history of the pass, chiseled into the wall and
become historical experts in 15 minutes.
We move on and become blocked in a traffic jam.
When I was here five years ago the pass was quiet with only a handful of trucks
going onwards into Afganistan. Now it's jam packed. It seems like there are
lots of Afgani heading home with their entire personal belongings packed onto
the back of a pickup.
We stop at the usual photo stop and snap a few pictures alongside another tour
group. It's actually quite a good photo stop.
As far as we are allowed to go. Afganistan is about 4km
in the
distance behind the Torkham border.
After some climbing and winding we reach as far as
we are allowed to go from where we can see the few km into Afganistan.
It's not actually that spectacular. It's simply the thought of the place and
the fact that these are dangerous lands and have been for many hundreds of
years.
On the hils are old British watch towers built to spy enemy attacks.
Locals in Landi Kotal.
On the way back we stop in the tribal town of
Landi Kotal and we all dive into a restaurant for a Kebab and chapati.
A joint gets passed around and our police gaurd tucks into it. It's not that
strange around here. I've met only a few locals who don't smoke the stuff
daily. Afterwards we get what feels like a package tour around Landi Kotal
market and we follow a rather dazed policeman through the alleyways. He
actually didn't have a clue as to where he was going. It's rather entertaining
seeing guys (and children) selling sheets of hasheesh next to a fruit and veg
shop.
Well armed Afganis.
We left Landi Kotal behind and I sit on top of the
pickup for a better view. We stop only once, for out last photo in the tribal
areas. It's not that exciting....until....a Toyota Hiace (van) pulls up nearby
and stacks of Afganis climb out. It's hard to believe that they actual can all
fit in there but whats more incredible is the amount of fire power they posses
between them. About 5 or six of them have machine guns around their necks as
casually as we have camera bags.
A few of our group feel slightly uneasy....not suprising seeing that out gaurd
is stoned:)
But they turn out to be friendly and let us shoot off a few photos. I'm soo
pissed off about losing my camera with two of my best photo days (Kyber pass
and Darra) and only a crappy disposable camera to use!
NEXT